Beginners Guide to OTG - The 3rd quarter.

This is part 3 of 4 of the series of ‘A beginner’s guide to Organic Terrace Gardening (OTG)’.

Seeds

There are various types of seeds – heirloom, open pollinated (o/p), hybrid, GMO, etc. This link gives a good explanation about them. If you can, try to get hold of either heirloom or o/p seeds. I started off with buying seeds. However, now that I have a good network of gardening friends, we keep exchanging seeds and have gone to the level of sending it across through post too! There are quite a number of "green" events held, mostly in Bangalore, which do have stalls dedicated for seeds and saplings.

Germination

Invest in a seeding / potting / germination tray. A basic one costs about Rs. 30.

For the potting mix only for seeds germination, take 5 handfuls of coco peat + 2 handfuls of compost + 1 handful of neem powder. Mix them all up and fill up the individual slots. As mentioned earlier, coco peat has no nutritional value. So a little bit of compost gives them that extra punch. Note, that the basic requirement for seeds to germination is moisture. Germination time depends on various reasons like climate, source and health of the seeds, etc. On an average seeds of common greens/veggies like palak, tomato, brinjal etc take roughly 1-2 weeks. 

- Fill the slots with the above germinating potting mix.
- Moisten the whole tray.
- Make a small hole in the middle of each slot, with your finger/pencil, a fwe millimeters deep.
- Place the seed. Its a good idea to place 2-3 seeds. The reason being at least one will germinate. Also there are sometimes LOTs of seeds in a single seed packet, which eventually one does not end up using. Use your own judgement !
- Cover with the potting mix around the slot, then give a gentle press.
- Place the tray in a bright but shaded place, away from direct sunlight.

Once the seeds germinate, let them stabilize for a few days. The initial leaves that come out of the seed are not the real ones. They are called as cotyledons. After a few more days, you can see more sets of leaves growing, which distinctly look different from the cotyledons. These are the "true leaves". Once you get about 5-6 true leaves, its time to transplant. While the seeds are in the initial germinating stage and young saplings are growing, water very gently so as not to disturb the seeds or the delicate and tender roots that are still in a developing stage. I use a dahi cup with a small hole at the bottom and let the water trickle down around onto the soil. Avoid the water to fall directly on the young sapling. As an alternative, you can sprinkle around the plant. During the germination stage, place the container/tray in a bright sunny place and away from direct sunlight.

Excellent document by another OTGian ...
https://www.facebook.com/notes/organic-terrace-gardening/seed-starting-tips-what-to-keep-in-mind-when-you-sow-seeds/731325836930414

a. In the dahi cup on the right, I placed all the seeds from a green capsicum used in the kitchen. After a few weeks, they germinated. Transplanted a few good ones, like the one in the left dahi cup, so that it grows well and on its own.

b. Placed a over ripe corn hob directly into a potting mix in a tetra box and this is how it looks now. Notice the un-germinated corn kernels

c. New batch of seeds in a seedling / germinating tray.

d. Like the capsicum seeds in point a, I placed all seeds from a tomato into a dahi cup. After a few days they germinated and transplanted the healthy ones seperately in a tray. 

I personally do not prefer to sow seeds of under ground grown veggies, like carrot, radish, beet. Its better to direct-sow them, instead of transplant. Mainly because these veggies might have already established their root (veggie part) growth during the initial stages.

This also applies for greens like palak (spinach), mint, coriander, methi (fenugreek), amaranthus, etc. Mainly since they are quite delicate plants during initial stages.

Sapling / Transplanting

When you are transplanting from the seedling tray to the final destination container, make sure you are not doing it under direct sun. Do it around 6-7 AM or 5-6 PM. Once transplanted, keep the container in a shady place. This is so that the sapling is able to bear the transplant shock. Water the container carefully, so as not to harm the sapling, as mentioned in the tips above.

Refer section "Mixing it all up !" at the end of the previous post for details on how to prepare the potting mix. 

If you can cover the sapling with a plastic bottle, like this, then you may do so. If at the initial stage, you feel that your plant needs support, you can stake the plant for support. Staking is placing a thin but strong piece of wood or pipe or bamboo, a few cms wide and 1-2 foot high. Insert it into the pot near the seedling, but not too close to the roots. Use a thread and tie the sapling loosely to the stick.

new life

Insect/Pest management

What is a garden without insects ? Its like life without problems ! Like them or hate them, they will be a part of your garden and they are here to stay. The most common insects that can create havoc are mealybugs, aphids and spider mites.

a. Aphids on the back of a leaf.

b. Aphids on the stem of a beans plant.

c. Mealy bugs.

d. Mealy bugs.

e. Spider Mites

f. Spider Mites

Some common remedies :

- First use a jet spray of water and get rid of all the insects from your plant. Use your fingers or a cotton swab or a small cotton ball if needed. Usually the bottle spray is not useful here. Instead use the water hose directly. Give the plant a complete wash. Wait for a few days and see if they come back. Give a second wash if necessary. If this does not help, use the options given below.

- Neem oil: Add 20 ml of neem oil to 1 liter of water. To this, add about 5 drops of liquid handwash or 2-3 pinches of detergent. Mix it all well and give a generous spray to all the affected parts of the plant, especially the underside of the leaves. Easily available on online gardening stores and in nurseries.

- 3G formula : Take ginger, green chillies and garlic each 100 gms. Grind it to paste . Take 5 ml of this paste and mix with one liter water and spray. This spray can be continued once in 10 days regularly.

- Sprinkle wood ash on the plant, preferably from wood that has not been treated chemically.

Once you have an attack of aphids and if you are really lucky enough, you might have a very friendly visitor. Some call it “ladybug“,  others “ladybird”, some others “lady beetle”. And they feast on these aphids.

One indicator when there is an aphid infection is the presence of ants on the plant. Ants do not directly harm the plants, but they help spreading and protecting the mealybugs and the aphids. The mealybugs and aphids take off nutrition from the plants and the ants then feed on them. So once you see ants on your plants, you know for sure that there is something “buggy” going on. Most of these insects will be on the back of the leaves, so it is difficult to spot them. Another option is also to spray boric acid, turmeric powder or talcum powder on the outside of the pot, not inside.

This is part 1.
This is part 2.
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This is part 4.